Before starting, be sure to read the entire procedure just in case you have any problems. It is better to pre-empt problems before they occur rather than at the final step.
Step 1
Here's how our trusty frame started life. It came with 2 removable frames made from craftwood, one stained brown and the other black (note that these removable frames are 4:3 aspect NOT square although it may appear so in the image above). Notice the IR receiver eye visible at the bottom of the frame (a pet peeve of mine and visible on most digital frames I've seen). I think we can do better. In this tutorial we are using a Digital Decor 8" 4:3 frame.
Step 2
I've chosen a digital frame with a removable frame surround which is ideal for this modification. We start simply by removing the existing frame.
Step 3
This frame has a "step" around the outside which will prove helpful when it comes to fixing it to a new frame. The green dotted line shows the size of the hole we will need to cut into the backboard of the new frame in order to slot it in. The lower step will be the area that is eventually glued to the backboard with silicone. The step also ensures that we can fit the LCD panel close to the matteboard so that there is very little gap between the matteboard and the LCD surface (approx 2mm).
Note the IR Remote Receiver at the bottom of the screen, this will be covered by the matteboard but should still work with a reduced range (but a nicer appearance). Its an interesting side note that the IR remote will work through 2mm of cardboard.
Step 4
Here we see the new frame, purchased from Ikea. I've chosen this frame as it has a solid wooden frame with deep edges (35mm deep) to contain most of the LCD panel without sticking out too far from the wall when mounted. The matteboard cutout section is exactly 120mm x 120mm and fits the LCD display area with only about 1mm to spare so its important that your measurements are fairly exact when undertaking this modification.
Since the cutout is square and our LCD panel is rectangular (4:3 aspect) part of the left and right hand sides of the screen will be covered by the matteboard and therefore not visible. Using this 800x600 panel as an example, we are left with 600x600 pixels viewable. However, what we lose in horizontal screen size we make up for in originality and appearance. When was the last time your saw a square format digital frame for sale in a store?
Step 5
Turn the frame over and lift the metal lugs to remove the backboard. Here I've placed the LCD panel into the frame to test the overall fit and approximate position. Turn the frame over whilst holding the LCD in place to get an idea how your LCD looks in relation to matteboard. If you are using the exact same 8 inch "Digital Decor" frame as this one it should fit just nicely, however if you are using another model you may need to have a new matteboard cut to size if the cutout isn't quite small enough.
If you are choosing a different digital frame, ensure that the vertical height of the LCD screen is no less than 120mm otherwise you will need a custom matteboard to be cut. Additionally, you don't really want the height to be much more than 120mm or else you will be wasting vertical pixels and the unit itself may not fit the new frame. Remember that you will still need to be able to insert at least some form of storage card and power cable into the unit so ensure that everything fits before going to far with this modification.
Step 6
Remove the matteboard from the frame and place it down directly over the top of the frame's backboard. Ensure that the backboard is smooth side up. The matteboard should sit as flush as possible with the backboard on all sides.
Step 7
Using a pen or pencil, mark the location of the 4 corners of the cutout onto the backboard as indicated by the arrows. Try to be as accurate as possible but take care not to mark the matteboard itself.
Step 8
Remove the matteboard and use a ruler and pen to connect the 4 marks you made in the previous step. You should be left with a square 120mm x 120mm. If you are using a digital frame other than the one mentioned here you can then use this square as a starting point for measuring out the section you will need to cut. Since its not possible for me to be aware of the exact frame you will be using, you will need to use your own method for deciding where to cut in this case. You will however need to measure the edges of the digital frame itself and decide the distance to extend the cut from the square section and mark those measurements on the backboard ready for cutting.
Step 9
For those of you using the exact same digital frame as in this tutorial I have included the measurements required to cut the backboard. The outer green rectangle denotes the area to be cut and removed. I strongly suggest you double check these measurements against those of your own digital frame in the likely event that the sizing is somewhat different. Keep in mind that there may also be some small variations in the production of the Ikea frame itself which may lead to the backboard and/or frame being not quite square. Note the placement of the small notch to be cut so the IR remote signal can be detected by the receiver. Whilst the signal will go through cardboard, it wont go through the backboard itself without the hole.
Step 10
Drill a pilot hole in each corner of the outer cut guides. The hole should be large enough to fit the jigsaw or coping saw blade. The backboard material is fairly flimsy and will flake easily on the opposite side but this can be removed later with a light sanding. You may also wish to use a larger drill bit to cut out the hole for the IR receiver, or you can simply use your saw.
Step 11
Working on the edge of a bench, insert your electric jigsaw or coping saw into the pilot hole and proceed to cut out the marked area. This image shows only one pilot hole, but its best to have a hole at each corner to make it easier.
Step 12
Give the inner edges of the cutout a sand to remove any rough edges. The board splinters very easily but only takes a light sand to smooth. You may wish to give the backboard a vacuum or perhaps even seal the rough side with varnish as the dust from the board can end up inside the completed frame quite easily.
Step 13
Remove the LCD panel and insert the matteboard and modified backboard back into the frame and lock the board in place with the metal lugs. Then run a bead of silicone around the perimeter of the cutout, leaving a break at the IR remote hole. The digital frame used in this tutorial has a stepped edged that is about twice as deep as the thickness of the backboard, so in this case I used a double height bead of silicone, applying first one layer and then another layer on top of the first bead (don't let either bead set). This ensures that the silicone makes a good contact with the digital frame once it is inserted into the cutout hole. The overhang of this particular digital frame is less than 10mm so be careful not to apply the silicone too far from the inner edge.
Step 14
Almost finished. After applying the silicone beading, insert the digital frame into the cutout section taking care to line it up carefully before pushing down with a slight pressure. Be careful not to get any silicone on the actual LCD panel itself. Remember that you are pushing onto glass so don't press too hard. You may wish to turn the frame over at this stage whilst holding the unit in place just to check that everything has lined up correctly.The silicone beading should push out a little from the edges of the digital frame if its making good contact. If this is not the case you may need to remove the the unit and apply some extra silicone.
Once your frame is complete you will likely want to mount it on a wall rather than storing it in a drawer. You can see from the angled image above that the modified frame does not extend much more from the wall than it usually would if it had a still image inside. If you are wall mounting the frame you may also want to hide the unsightly power cable from view. If you have a timber framed home with a cavity in the walls the cable can be hidden within in the wall cavity with the aid of an electrician who should be able to advise you as to the best and safest method to do this. I would very much like to describe the technique here as the procedure is quite easy however due to dangerous voltages being involved I think its best if you contact an expert rather than have this tutorial subjected to legal issues.
DO NOT ATTEMPT ELECTRICAL WORK YOURSELF IF NOT QUALIFIED
TOUCHING LIVE WIRES MAY CAUSE INJURY OR DEATH.
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